Best Overall
Black Diamond Momentum
Key details
- Last
- Neutral
- Sole
- 4.3mm rubber
- Upper
- Engineered knit
- Closure
- Two hook-and-loop straps
Two hook-and-loop straps make the Black Diamond Momentum the easiest shoe in this group to live with. We could loosen them between climbs, cinch them down for a boulder, and never fight with wet laces. The neutral last and knit upper feel forgiving from the first session, and the 4.3mm rubber is thick enough to last through gym mileage without feeling dead on small edges. For a first pair, that combination is the strongest default here.
The knit upper is the detail we appreciated most during longer sessions. It breathes better than a leather shoe and has enough stretch to take pressure off the toes, while the EVA cushioning underfoot takes the sting out of repeated landings. On plastic holds, the sole balances grip and support: it edges well enough for a beginner, and it smears without the skatey feeling we associate with harder rubber.
There are more precise shoes in this guide for steep bouldering, but they cost more and ask for a tighter fit. The Momentum is the one we point new climbers toward when they want one pair for gym sessions, moderate outdoor routes, and the learning curve in between. Get the fit right and it will carry you well past the rental stage.
Pros
- Easy on/off with two hook-and-loop straps
- Breathable knit upper for long sessions
- Balanced 4.3mm rubber for grip and wear
- Neutral shape suits gym and moderate rock
Cons
- Narrow toe box and sizing can run small
We recommend the Momentum as the default first pair for its comfortable knit fit, easy straps, and balanced grip on gym and moderate outdoor climbs.